Japan is famous for its sushi, ramen, and for the better initiated, its omakase dining. But just travel to Japan today, and amidst the sea of ramen bars, sushi dives, and Michelin-starred establishments, there’s a new sheriff in town, taking over quiet neighbourhoods, and late-night cafés. The world’s most popular food, pizza, has become something of a national obsession. Made of slow, fermented doughs, exceptional ingredients (in a country with some of the best produce, remember!), meticulous craftsmanship and an unwavering pursuit of perfection (again, Japanese-style), Japan has redefined this humble Italian fave into a major culinary tour de force.

During a recent trip to Japan, Delhi restaurant Call me Ten’s co-founder Karann R. Chawla discovered that Tokyo alone is home to more than 1,400 pizzerias, many with queues stretching well beyond their doors. Some of these are Tokyo’s top-rated restaurants, at the heart of which are blazing wood fired ovens, slow fermented doughs, meticulous hydration, exceptional seasonal ingredients, and flavour combinations from miso and yuzu to mushrooms and seafood. Every pizza is made with the same discipline, artistry, precision, and attention to detail that define Japanese cuisine. It was this contemporary expression of Japan's evolving food culture that inspired the newest chapter of Call Me Ten's menu. Karann asked himself, how do we get this back to India?

This idea led to the introduction of a limited-menu Izakaya Style Pizzettas, the restaurant’s newest hero category, with sourdough as its base – which makes it gluten-free, implemented by genius Chef Vaibhav Bhargava (former MasertChef Judge and the brains behind Vietnamese restaurant Cho). While rooted in Italian pizza making (so you retain an element, say, the cheese), the Japanese interpretation includes bold umami, shiraae (tofu salad), mushroom and truffle, seasonal ingredients, and unexpected flavour pairings that reflect the country's ever-changing food culture.

We started with a deliciously smooth Edamame Hummus and Chips, with avocado, truffle oil, and homemade chips – the beetroot ones were particularly delicious. There’s also a Chili Crunch Avocado and Tofu salad, with pomelo, avocado sashimi, silken tofu, finished with Umeboshi dressing.

From the small plates section, we tried the tart and tangy Charred Pineapple Ceviche, which was a perfect mixture of citrus and spice, with a juice of lemon, onion, ginger, informs Chef Vaibhav.

The Green Chilli Gyoza, which doesn’t feel spicy at all, with chilli as the main ingredient, with water chestnut, green vegetables, bok choi, with a green chilli salsa on top. “Call me Ten does not serve very spicy dishes,” says Chef Vaibhav, “Our dishes are ingredient-forward. You should taste what a dim sum is, gyozas in Japan are served with this kind of ponzu sauce. It’s green because we use spinach. We also use carrot, beetroot, purple cabbage.”

The Smoked Duck Salad comes with pickled vegetables and a honey-soy chilli dressing. “We always want to do something new,” says Chef Vaibhav, “This time, we said, let’s smoke the duck – it’s been two years, we’re here, let’s try something new. In any case, this restaurant is all about small bites – the izakaya tradition in Japan. We’re also constantly making new things on the robata grill.” There’s also a rolled omelette – the Tomago Yaki – a very traditional Japanese dish with seasoned chicken mince.

When we come to the Japanese Pizzetas, we go for the Mushroom and Truffle (with wild mushrooms, garlic soy butter, and truffle oil). “The founders tried the best pizzas in Japan and were inspired by Japanese ingredients, and told me, why not we do it and do it in a different way?” says Chef Vaibhav, “These are small pizzas, just like if you go to Japan, to the best restaurant in Tokyo, on the 38th floor of the Mandarin Oriental, The Pizza Bar on the 38th (one of the top pizza restaurants in the world). I think our combinations came out well. So instead of marinara sauce, we will use ingredients like miso and tomato sauce, matching Japanese and Italian ingredients.” He tells me that for my pizzetta, he’s taken portobello and white fungus mushrooms, tossed them in a butter garlic sauce, and throw in the oven as a topping (the base is Neapolitan); the result is a soft and juicy pizza.

One can also try bright citrus notes of Artichoke with Yuzu & Pesto, the indulgent Four Cheese Umami finished with miso honey, and the bold Gochujang Chicken. Each pizzetta celebrates creativity, that’s made Japan's pizza culture one of the most admired in the world.

In the new menu you will also find Chintan Ramen, Avocado Inari Sushi, a beloved staple of neighbourhood izakayas (we tried it – it’s essentially ‘pockets’ made of fried tofu filled with a creamy avocado tartare… absolutely satisfying!), seafood creations, and Japanese-Peruvian Udon Carbonara, inspired by the culinary dialogue between Japan, Peru and Italy that continues to redefine global gastronomy.

For dessert, the Basque Cheesecake and Tiramisu are wonderful options, but I fell for the delicious creaminess of the Tropical Tres Leches – made with a soft coconut tres leches topped with fresh mangoes and passion fruit compote… heavenly!