Sir Paul Smith takes us on a nostalgic trip down the memory lane of British subculture – key moments in cultural history that have shaped his 50 years in fashion – a cornucopia of prints, silhouettes, and textures – for his Paul Smith Autumn Winter 21 Men’s Show.

Paul Smith AW21 Detail2 - king of the printed suit

It was a nostalgic look at British icons of season past, a cascade of prints, psychedelic groove, romanticism, and neo-punk for the legendary British designer who now celebrates 51 years in fashion. Models swagger through a corrugated grey-white backdrop (which turns out to be a hangar), to a funky beat, donning Sir Paul’s key British references, decade and epoch-wise, that have shaped his signature look – whether it’s flower child, punk, preppy, or mod. It’s Great Britannia at its best. For Autumn/Winter ’21 Paul Smith takes you on a journey through these subcultures that have signposted his career, remixing icons of British clothing design for a new generation.

Colourful woollens at Paul Smith AW21 Paisley pants and suede shoes at Paul Smith AW21 showcase a classic look

The year 2020 provided a unique moment of reflection for Paul Smith, with his landmark 50th anniversary celebrations followed by the imposed introspection of lockdown. And now, 2021 offers the opportunity to reset and rethink, resulting in remixed versions of some Paul Smith classics.

Paul Smith AW21 - shearling jacket over a printed shirt Paul Smith AW21 - psychedlic print shirt and tie

Key pieces nod to different subcultural moments that have influenced Paul over the last five decades of design. Tartan tailoring brings to mind 1970s ska, Terry Hall and The Specials. Generously proportioned wool coats, sheepskins and a modern take on the donkey jacket speak to 1980s new wave romanticism. Mohair knits are part punk, part preppy, while playing to Paul Smith’s great strength: stripes. Silk pajamas are confidently displayed, mixing a hint of 1970s psychedelia with the WFH mood of life in 2021. These individual references are confidently thrown together to create an eclectic “Best Of” album – a collection of rediscovered classics repackaged for a new generation.

Paul Smith AW21 - slim ties and tapered pants of the 80s Paul Smith AW21 - the rainbow stripe on a belt bag

A colour palette of rich, wintry greens, purples and browns are punctured by zesty highlights of lime, orange and pink. Floral prints create a sense of softness to sit in contrast with the utilitarian toughness of military jackets and heavy boots. As a pioneer of floral print for men, Paul continues to innovate with 3D florals printed onto leather and woven into fabric. A modernized paisley revives another Paul Smith signature pattern, while a Hawaiian print reminds Paul of the vintage shirts he would sell from his first Nottingham shop 50 years previously.

Paul Smith AW21 Look 005 - an army flight jacket that's reversible Paul Smith AW21 Look 015 - Harrington jacket

Julian Ganio’s father has long been a loyal customer and friend to Paul. Julian’s plundering of his dad’s Paul Smith archive for many years means he’s perfectly qualified to style the collection. The show features a troupe of Paul Smith characters, cast by Ben Grimes, each with their own unique personalities and interests – a true cross-section of the modern Paul Smith customer.

Paul Smith AW21 Look 028 - turned up jeans and heavy black loafers reference the 80s punk era Paul Smith AW21 Detail24 - inspired by the British trench coat but this time in wool

Director, George Harvey, turns his precise and refined eye to capturing the collection on film. Show music continues the magpie approach, selecting the highlights of many eras and genres. Imagine an extensive record collection, lovingly raided and remixed to create something new.

Paul Smith AW21 Detail1 - heavy black shoes and turned up jeans of the 80s punks Paul Smith AW21 - leather, plaid, and prints Paul Smith AW21 - monochrome shades with texture and print play Paul Smith AW21 Detail 15 - the rainbow stripe on a bag and the Harrington jacket Paul Smith AW21 - neon orange utilitarian inspired jacket Paul Smith AW21 - cream suede shoes Paul Smith AW21 - cords, velvet, checks, mohair, wool - all the elements of British fashion Paul Smith AW21 - classic plaid bag Paul Smith AW21 - checked wool suit with punk pink and blue sweater underneath Paul Smith AW21 - archival prints, stripes on wool, plaid and leather Paul Smith AW21 - backpack with rainbow print detail Paul Smith AW21 - a sharp fitted suit in the 80s style