Sheer, fresh, understated, and undeniable luxurious – Tory Burch’s Spring Summer 23 runway collection, defined by experimentation and minimalism, introduces Indian silk and mirror-work – made in India – in subtle touches.

Tory Burch gets her inspo from India

Tory Burch’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection is defined by opposing instincts: to experiment freely and to pare everything back. That being said, it was refreshing to see this clean-lined collection, infused with rather luxurious fabrics, that included silk from India, and mirror-work, made in India.

Tory Burch SS23 uses exquisite Indian silk in dresses

Along with superfine knits, techno satin, and weightless jerseys, the maison has used rich Indian silk (seen in dresses), and mirror-work detailing. An exploration of form in wrapped silhouettes, sporty separates and the opposition of sculptural tailoring over translucent layers. All lightened by a touch of strangeness, the shock of handbags in acid colours, and surrealist shoes with trompe l’oeil toe rings and ‘inverted’ heels.

Tory Burch - all dressed up

“This collection is personal and intuitive, drawing on my memories of the ’90s when I moved to New York. I wanted to look at my signatures with a fresh perspective, reflecting what feels modern now,” says maison founder and designer Tory Burch.

Tory Burch SS23 with sheer materials

A Return to 90s minimalism

A focus on the body continues in sleek, minimalist jersey separates, feather-weight knits, and sporty cropped trousers. Several looks feature jersey bandeaux ruched over the waist for soft waist definition, while others wrap gently around the body, from narrow midi skirts in stretch satin to luxurious Indian silk dresses.

Tory Burch SS23 boxy coats in gold foil leather

In contrast, tailoring is highly architectural: Moulded basque tunics, sharp Italian wool blazers, and boxy coats in gold foiled leather.

Tory Burch SS23 uses luxe materials

Luxe, sensual materials

The collection began with the materials: transparent and opaque, reflective and matte, luxurious and humble. Exquisite Indian silk, Italian wool, lamé, silk taffeta, lace, and silk gazar with cotton T-shirts, denim, and sporty viscose. The fabrics inform the silhouettes, and many are injected with stretch for ease and movement.

A desire for lightness plays out in shimmering lamé and lace dresses, sheer cotton knits, and organza overlays, which lend dimension to evening dresses and miniskirts.

Tory Burch SS23 with mirror-work

Mirror, Mirror on the Wall

A pastel yellow tunic is embroidered with graphic silver sequins, while several looks feature mirrorwork in different sizes — all hand-done in India. The maison collaborated with its long-standing partner, Orange International India, a manufacturer that works with expert artists across two regions in India.

Tory Burch SS23 uses a lot of white and pastels

The season’s palette is intuitive and slightly strange, mixing cool neutrals, optic white, icy pastels, and high-shine metallics. In the absence of bold print and pattern, the colours emphasize material, texture, and silhouette.

Tory Burch SS23 accessories

Everyday Chic to the Rescue

This season’s footwear is sharp, geometric, and mostly flat, reimagining what everyday shoes can look like. Squared-off soles, doubled-up slingbacks, and cut-out Double T logos are subtle, yet transformative updates. A standout mule plays at Surrealism with a trompe l’oeil “toe ring” and inverted “gravity heel,” a cushion-like platform above – not below – the sole.

Tory Burch SS23 with the 90s doctor bag

The collection’s new handbags include a ’90s-inspired doctor bag, our new take on the modern work bag with a roomy interior and ultra-light construction.

Also new: a small, square shoulder bag with a cut-out silver Double T logo and envelope-inspired interior. On several styles, the logo reveals contrasting colors underneath. The bags’ pared-back shapes allow for a range of bold colours and surface treatments, like crinkled patent, embossed croc, contrast top-stitching, and neon embossed snake.

Tory Burch SS23 features hoop earrings

The season introduces new experiments in jewellery: Cosmic hoops feature iridescent charms and beads; silver snakes wrap around the wrists and biceps; and cascading wire hoops mimic the effect of multiple piercings.

Tory Burch SS23

A Show on Pier 76

Set on the Hudson River at Pier 76, the Spring/Summer 2023 show took place at sunset with a celestial mobile suspended over the runway. Wladimir Schall produced the music, which included “Suite Bergamasque” by Tomita, “Whole Lotta (V dub edit)” by Led Zeppelin, “I Heard it Through the Grapevine” by The Slits, “Don’t Break My Heart” by UB40, and “Tonight, Tonight” by The Smashing Pumpkins.

Tory Burch relaxing with her pets in her NYC apartment