Step into a world of sci-fi where new solutions (from upcycled to modern handlooms) crop up within the physical world, disrupting existing ideologies and stereotypes – this is the world of Dhruv Kapoor, as he recently presented his Spring-Summer 24 collection at Milan Fashion Week, Fantasm.

Dhruv Kapoor Milan S24 032

What made you decide on ‘Fantasms’ and its futuristic tone?

We humans are the biggest mystery – where we come from, why are we here and what we are capable of… Fantasms was apt; it defines us as products of fantasy and that we are made of magic. The future definitely holds a true understanding of who we really are- devoid of social and political restraints, gender and backgrounds- and the future is now. Most of our Spring’24 has evolved through the mind-bending accounts as reported by Dolores Cannon through her series called the convoluted universe. It broadens your perspective and makes you revisit the past, present and future.

Designer Dhruv Kapoor

What made you travel back to the 1970s and what do you love most about this decade?

It wasn’t a conscious choice to look at that decade specifically, but more to do with what we discovered during our design process. The collection is inspired by a myriad subcultures and past eras that are spliced in a contemporary format. Fantasms pits 1970s sci-fi prints against vibrant florals and crop circle patterns including a versatile colour palette of mood-boosting brights and broody neutrals with the aim of tapping into the psychology of clothes, the impact of colour, silhouette and print, where the feel good factor is key.

Dhruv Kapoor m S24 034

In terms of silhouettes – lots of pantsuits, louche forms – what were you aiming for, and what is the decoding of the masculine/feminine?

The idea is to birth a new aesthetic – one that borrows from both ends and takes a fluid form. Spring’ 24 questions our relationship with established gender norms for an innovative take on masculinity and femininity, where balance is key and silhouettes nod towards comfort with a DIY approach: detachable bejewelled collars and modular cargos; giant and petite pairings; raw and refined configurations. The combination of natural and artificial births a new dimension that explores the balance between the safe and familiar; the outlandish and the experimental.

Dhruv Kapoor m S24 035

What are the fabrics that you have used (upcycled), and what percentage was upcycled and from where?

We seasonally commit to using 40 percent upcycled fabrics that are sourced domestically. Additionally, my team and I collectively explore options of recycled synthetics, fine suiting sourced from global markets along with custom-made materials that assist us in building a past-future direction.

Dhruv Kapoor m S24 037

What are the rest, in terms of authentic Indian handlooms?

Spring’24 plays with multiple Indian handloom fabrics – from seersucker checks to mix-media jacquards in vibrant prints. This was one of the most exciting explorations during our design process – the options are endless and tweaking one single yarn can result into new textures and fantastic materials. The season also releases knitwear which is a key category for us.

Dhruv Kapoor m S24 005 keylook

There was a lot of sportiness. Could you tell us about the sports combos and athleisure?

Functionality is key and that often gives a sporty appeal. I enjoy crafting pieces that would blend sport and couture together, where tech fabrics are crafted with elements from couture and tailored to a desired result. It’s this blend of polar worlds that excites me and maintains freshness in the product.

Dhruv Kapoor m S24 041

A lot of denims and prints! Does this mark a return to urban street style for SS24?

Everything is streetstyle. The new age is all about pairing diverse moods together- from a vibrant print clash to a total monochrome look or a combination of the two. Fantasms plays in the same tone. Urban street style is all about elevated emotions- the intangible aspect of clothes.

Dhruv Kapoor m S24 040 keylook

How have your travels, music, and contemporary culture influenced you for this collection?

I absorb my surroundings most of the time. It is exciting for me to observe floating mindsets in a room and react to those through our seasonal projections. Contemporary culture is individualistic. There are no rules or set standards to live by. We are free to choose our projection. In music, you can see me tuning into Indian classical or techno/ ambient or even hip-hop/ R&B. The collection always plays with a mix of moods, combining diverse genres in culture and music from varied eras.

How does it feel to be in Milan this year? What is the mood there?

Milan always feels like home. I have lived there for a couple of years and I always look forward to being back in Milan. There is always something brewing and we are surrounded by good taste and good food. It’s a feast for your eyes and your palette. During fashion week in Milan, you would always find a combination of heritage and contemporary culture coming together from around the world and its embraced with open arms.

What's next for you?

The next moves are always exciting. We are looking at an internal and external restructuring of the brand as we conclude our tenth year in 2024. We are working on multiple collaborative projects and introducing new verticals to the brand enhancing our brand experience and its offerings from all directions.